Last Nov. 3, ‘Marche@Hyehwa Station’ was held at Marronnier Park. The name of this event is derived from the French word for market with the @ symbol accompanied by the specific location. Marche@ is a farmer’s market which opens once or twice a month. Managed by numerous people besides city farmers, this market forges a bond that goes beyond the typical relationship between seller and buyer. Amidst the cold breeze of the coming winter, The Argus met with Lee Bo-eun who is a Marche@ Friend, the directing team of Marche@ who first founded Marche@ and heard heart-warming stories about people bridging bonds with old and new faces.

The Argus: Please introduce yourself and Marche@ to The Argus readers.
Lee Bo-eun (Lee): Hello. I am Lee Bo-eun. Together with my Marche@ Friends, I am currently in charge of running Marche@ where producers and consumers meet each other and engage in dialogue on the topic of healthy lifestyle. It is held once or twice every month except during the hottest and coldest months, August and January. The market consists of three teams of farmers, cooks and handicraft artists.

The Argus: How did you come up with Marche@?
Lee: Previously, I tried to create a rooftop garden amid the deteriorated and deserted iron factory complex in Mullae-dong. The young people from the area doubted the possibility for growing a crop there. To our surprise, we managed to reap not only edible but healthy crops. From this experience, I learned that these people need confidence if there should be a future in in-city farming. I envisioned a place where city farmers altogether gather, share their fruits and take pride in what they achieved. This abstract idea was developed with another Marche@ Friend, Sue-hyang who valued direct dialogue between the producer and consumer for a reliable food purchase. The combination of our dreams was actualized after a year in the name of Marche@.

The Argus: Why is it named Marche@?
Lee: I find the marketplaces of the modern world rather cold. In the passionate pursuit of capitalistic values, they overlook other essential values. If you go to a supermarket, for example, you single out the merchandise, pay the price and head out. However, a prototypical picture of a market would depict a delightful scene of dialogue among people. They would exchange not only goods but also real-life stories of how they raised the crop and how to best cook it. I hoped to restore the original form and function of a market, so the name Marche came to mind, which means market in French. There is no other modifier in front; it is just Marche itself. Hence, it represents the rebirth of the market in its most original form.

The Argus: What makes Marche@ special?
Lee: Marche@ practices what is called “woosan-wooso (友産友消).” It means what a friend produces is consumed by a friend. The word originates from a movement in Japan called “jisan-jiso (地産地消)” which promotes the consumption of local food within the area of production. We placed additional emphasis on the relationship between producer and consumer. Therefore, in Marche@ the producers build friendships with their consumers, so each entity produces and consumes with responsibility and respect. For example, the consumer empathizes with the emotional progress of the product-an output of immense passion and perseverance-so they consume it with respect.

The Argus: How does dialogue take place in Marche@?
Lee: Three weeks before the day of the market, the sellers announce what they will bring to the market, and we deliver this information to people. Aware of what to expect and what to ask, they prepare for conversations with the producers and they interact with one another in Marche@. We believe it is important not only to communicate that the products are organic and chemical-free but also to thoroughly explain what they are. This method of communication helps the consumer make informed purchases. Also, the farmers and chefs change their cultivation or cooking methods based on consumer feedback. Afterwards, the sellers, Marche@ Friends and volunteers gather around to share comments about the day-what took place, how it went and how they felt. As for the farmers and chefs, they are each other’s customers, so the chef’s feedback about the ingredients they bought is communicated to the farmer. As a result, the farmers learn how the ingredients could be used and how they could be better cultivated.

The Argus: Is there anything you do to facilitate communication between people?
Lee: From the beginning, we thought to remove the elements that might impede communication. First of all, we decided to get rid of store signs. The big banners of stores seemed to highlight not only individual booths but also acted to deprive people of an opportunity to raise questions. Eliminating those factors made the crops and other exhibited goods stand out and thus directed people’s attention to the products instead of names and brands. Also, we adopted a container rental service to eradicate an overflow of garbage that compromises a communicative environment. We lend people a container to hold their food with a deposit. When they bring it back to cooks of their meals, they return not just the container but feedback and a series of questions regarding what they ate. They may compliment them on the food and ask for the recipes. Therefore, the renting system encourages additional dialogue. This lays the foundation for forming an interactive relationship between the seller and the consumer.

The Argus: I can see that the consumers take an active part in Marche@. What do you think about that?
Lee: I appreciate how much the citizens voluntarily contribute to Marche@. When I worked for an environmental organization, I endeavored to inform people of the importance of protecting the environment. It was always the activists that had to convince people to change their actions. However, in Marche@, it is the people that take the lead and take action. For example, people bring their own plates in consideration of those who wash the lent dishes behind. When they hand out their own bottles, the cooks give more than asked for in appreciation. They together show how things are done in Marche@ through their actions without having to discuss what should be done.

The Argus: How has Marche@ been received by people?
Lee: A lot of people have welcomed Marche@ with a warm heart. In spite of lacking promotion, Marche@ is crowded to the extent that we now worry about overpopulation. A large number of people say they wish Marche@ were held more often or held near their homes. Yet, some regret that the price of the products is not very cheap despite the direct exchange. Nonetheless, I would like to challenge the social perception that natural products should be cheaper according to the layers of the distribution process. I believe price should not be determined by social agreement, but belong to the farmer. Farmers have the right to decide a reasonable price and also the responsibility to live up to expectations set by the price. 

The Argus: What did you find difficult in organizing Marche@?
Lee: I have struggled to come up with a financially sustainable model of Marche@. In order to maintain our presence in the market, we need a decent revenue model. However, there is not much profit gained from the market itself. Currently, Marche@ is managed through donations from sellers and Marche@ Friends. After every Marche@, the sellers donate 10 percent of their sales income and Marche@ Friends contribute their profits earned from other activities. We are currently reviewing various cases in foreign countries in search of a sustainable structure.

The Argus: What plans do you have for the future?
Lee: Right now, Marche@ seeks a new space where people’s participation can be maximized. Marche@ venues, mostly public parks, have faced limitations in performing a wide range of activities other than just selling and cooking. Ultimately, Marche@ aims to create a cultural space devoid of those limitations; a place where people can freely farm, hold markets and carry out other creative projects.  

In actuality, the concept of cultural community is not something far away from our lives. As you can see from the interview above, Marche@ does not only offer a platform for small farmers to sell their organic harvest but brings people together into a small community. It is a cultural landmark. The Argus bids a silent hope that this interview instilled the warmth of people, relationships and community.

Reporter of Culture Section